Interesting read from the magazine Current Obsession. The chapter “From gemstones to jewelry” from theorist & philosopher Roland Barthes’ book The Language of Fashion. Read it here.
“…the mythology of woman has changed: in the novel, in films, woman is less and less the femme fatale, no longer the destroyer of men; she can no longer be essentialized, stopped from existing or made into a precious and dangerous object; she has rejoined the human race. And also gemstones, the great mythical gemstones, are barely worn nowadays; they are of historical value, only, sterilized, embalmed and kept away from female body, condemned to sit safe. In short, fashion – need I say more? – no longer speaks of the gemstone but only of jewellery.”
The book Language of Fashion by Roland Barthes was first published in France, 2004, by Editions du Seuill. The article From Gemstones to Jewellery was first published in Jardin des Arts, 77 (April), 1961; Oeuvres complétes vol. 1, 911-14. Illustrations and collages by AMBER IBARRECHE
… with pencils today.
A quite interesting debate topic from Creative Review. Written by Patrick Burgoyne:
On Saturday I chaired a Q&A session with Stefan Sagmeister at the Cheltenham Design Festival. During our discussion, he revealed that his studio never pitches for work. ‘That’s all very well for a big name like Stefan Sagmeister’, you might think, ‘what about the rest of us?’ But Sagmeister revealed that refusing to pitch for work is becoming more and more common in the US. And there are sound reasons for doing so.
Sagmeister’s argument, and one that is shared by many, is that the pitch process is bad for designers, clients and the work. The work that usually ends up winning, he says, is not necessarily the best solution for the client but the best response to the brief in the pitch. Such briefs typically ask work to respond to a list of criteria: an identity must be ‘dynamic’, say, or reference ‘diversity’. So the respondents engage in a box-ticking exercise to address these criteria and the winner is the one that does it best.
Read the whole article here.
From top: Hawaiian Music (1974) by Ed Ruscha, Vintage sea shell poster, Stella McCartney Scarf, Lanvin earrings and picture from In the Spirit of St Barths book by Assouline.